infinite 605cs in the doors
Legacy Pictures
Money Invested
Euro 93-96 intercooler installation writeup
Tires
Time Spent Rebuilding engine
3-9-2001: 6 hours(2): removed radiator, battery, disconnected a/c compressor,
disconnected power steering, disconnected a shit
load of hoses
3-14-2001: 2 hours(2): removed intake manifold and prepped up for removing
pulley crank shaft
3-17-2001: 3 hours(2): pulled crank shaft pulley off, and passenger side head.
no gasket failure
4-6-2001: 4 hours(2): pulled motor out and removed driver side head off.
no apparent gasket failure.
4-14-2001: 1 hour(2): pulled down pipe off of turbo, sludge in intake side,
need to do a pressure check
4-18-2001: 1 hour(2): removed water/oil pump
4-25-2001: 3 hours(2): cracked case open
5-2-2001: 2 hours(1): removed springs from heads, cleaned heads,
cleaned pistons, honed block,
5-12-2001: 3 hours(1): removed automatic transmission
5-13-2001: 3 hours(1): removed automatic shifter, removed pedals,
installing clutch pedals
5-14-2001: 1 hour(2): clean up of bench =]
5-15-2001: 3 hours(2): bought plastigage and measured the rods
5-17-2001: 2 hours(2): remeasured rods on crankshaft and sent in for another
polish
5-22-2001: 2 hours(2): assembled heads and remeasured rods
5-29-2001: 3 hours(2): measured tolerance on crank and block
6-21-2001: 3 hours(2): install rods on crank
6-22-2001: 3 hours(2): put crank in block, sealed with anaerobic sealer,
installed main rear seal, $120 for adore's shop/time,
wrong rings?
7-19-2001: 4 hours(2): used rings from svx, top ring is out of spec,
but all the others are fine. put 4 pistons in,
put in rod pins. 1 set appears to be lost.
8-10-2001: 1 hour(1): finished installation of pedals. clutch reservoir
installed. brakes booster reinstalled.
8-19-2001: 6 hours(1): installed the heads, camshafts, oil pump,
water pump, some other random pieces. need to find lots of
bolts, and start figuring out the puzzle
8-20-2001: 2 hours(1): some cleaning, reorganizing, fitting pieces with
rubber gaskets
9-18-2001: 1 hour(1): reacquinated with my goals, and some more part
organizing
9-22-2001: 1 hour(1): straightened out the fins on the intercooler
10-20-2001: 5 hours(1): replaced 2 timing pulleys with bearings, the others
seemed fine, installed timing belt!,
cleaned the intake, put the intake on
10-31-2001: 1 hour(2): pulled intake off, mounted motor in chasis temporarily
11-3-2001: 8 hours(2): flywheel attached, clutch installed, transmission
mounted, motor installed, frontend half-shalfs
installed, drive shaft installed, intake installed
total: 74 hours
11-10-2001: 4 hours(1): hoses installed..., mostly putting the puzzle back
together
11-21-2001: 1 hour(1): replaced the brake fluid
11-22-2001: 4 hours(1): installing transmission mount, replaced fuel filter,
put tranmission oil in,
11-23-2001: 10 hours(1): fucked transmissions mount, installed turbo, put on
exhaust shields, lined up most hoses, now i have two
hoses that I have no idea where they go.
11-24-2001: 5.5 hours(1): had to remove turbo.
holy shit i put the heads on backwards, that means I
have to pull the heads off which means lots and
lots of time.
so i have put 1 hour of removal, timing belt
removed, intake manifold removed
11-25-2001: 7.5 hours(1): removed exhaust, timing belt off, removed heads,
swapped heads, reinstalled timing belt
11-26-2001: 1.5 hours(1): repaired transmission mount, installed transmission
mount, installed random bracket, removed clutch hose
12-13-2001: 3.5 hours(1): installed intake manifold, exhaust, turbo,
shifter components done,
12-14-2001: 5 hours(1): installed transmission clutch cover!! reviewed
electric wiring,
12-15-2001: 6 hours(1): installed all hoses, plug in battery, main
fuse gets blown, grr!!
12-16-2001: 5 hours(1): short was at alternator, it runs! valves were
loud but they seem to be quieter now. had a check engine light due to
not have a host connected. everything seems good so far. i just need
the final piece for the clutch and it's drivable.
12-17-2001: 2 hours(1): made a more permanment solution for starting
the engine, it's now permanently in manual mode =] cleaned the
interior of the car, reinstalled most of the dash, clutch part will
arrive tomorrow. hopefully i have all the pieces and will be driving
it later tomorrow.
12-18-2001: 10 hours(1): installed hydraulic clutch, bled system, it
seems that the master cyclinder has issues. i will will buy a
replacement seal and see if that solves my problem.
12-19-2001: 10 hours(2): bought new master cylinder. there probably
is nothing wrong with the other one though. woops. $200 for a new
one. oh well. some little squeaks here and there, but i can tight
them down before you know it. installed new windshield wiper blades,
aimed headlights.
wow! what an amazing accomplishment. ripped the entire motor out,
rebuilt and put it all back together. it really is quite an
experience. as much grumbling as i do when i'm putting it together I
still had fun and learned a great deal.
total: 149 hours / 9 month + 7 days
1-x-2001: 1 hour(1): jumped uphill on quintara, lost upper radiator hose, broke
temp probe in the process. replaced, surprising easy!
2-12-2001: 14 hours(1): upgrade suspension, whiteline adjust rear
sway, whiteline front/rear sway links, kyg agx shocks, ground control
coil overs, whiteline anti lift
2-13-2001: 9 hours(1): installed stereo, jvc deck, sony amp, infinite
605cs in the doors
2-14-2001: 6 hours(1): finished install of stereo
notes about conversion from automatic to stick
(Message sent-mail:1339)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2002 16:02:02 PST
To: "Dave C" (dac@xxxxxxxx.com)
From: Lex Ludeman (lex@lexinator.com)
Subject: Re: A few minor details...
In-Reply-To: Your message of "Sun, 17 Feb 2002 08:22:06 MST."
<007601c1b7c6$dc428880$4a00000a@monolith>
The clutch master cylinder isn't returning the pedal to the top of it's
> travel, is this similar to the problem you were having with yours? You
> replaced yours, but i seem to recall that you weren't sure it was bad in
> the first place. Why?
BLEED THE AIR! two people are mandatory. it's a bitch. there are two
bleeders, we just did one for like 5-6 times, then switched to the
other. repeat. repeat. repeat. repeat! i also pulled the clutch up
with a rubber cord. not sure this really helped but it seemed to
tightened up more quickly...
> How did you trick it into starting without the neutral switch?
Well at first i just shorted it so it was permanently in neutral, but
this disables cruise control. I eventually switched this out with a
relay and used the neutral switch to invert the behavior. there are
two cords that go to the tranny. one is a 4x4, which is used to
tell the tranny when to shift. the 4x3 is the one you want.
let's see here:
connector from ecu (my ascii respresentation of the connector)
XX
1 2 3 4
5 6 7 8
X 9 10 11 12 X
starter: you need to short pins 11 and 12. if you want cruise control
to work you will need to buy a relay from radioshack and
connect it to the neutral switch.
reverse lights: 9 & 10
manual tranny has a connector.
X
1 2
X 3 4 X
one is the neutral switch and one is the reverse light. According
to the book it's 1 & 2 for reverse, and 3 & 4 for neutral. When I
connected mine it turned out to be 1&3 for reverse and 2&4 for
neutral. it's easy to test with a ohm meter.
You should also short one of the cables that went to the shifter. One of
them is the AT shift lock. when you short it with the battery plugged
in you will hear it click where the key hole is. When you short the other
one it turns on the manual light on the dash. it's a 2x2 male connector.
I used the male end of one of those "quick disconnect" that come from
the radio shack kits.
> How did you connect the speed sensor?
mine just fit. is there something wrong with yours? i noticed int he
parts book there was an extender, but it wasn't a requirement for
me...
> Did you have mounts for the downpipe that connected to the transmission?
no i didn't. i think the manual tranny has a different down pipe.
the downpipe seemed pretty tight in place with upper and lower mounts.
i'm sure you can make some sort of bracket, but it would have to be
stiff metal to be useful.
lex
[i'm going to put this up on my website too]
good resources
jaymie / gary chambers
303-444-2061 (1-888-442-6508 ext 115)
tunnel bracket, hydraliuc, master/ ;
tranny, rear diff(3.9)., drive shaft, pedal
boot: 73k - $800 (it's from a 91 sedan turbo, 73k seems low...)
6 months warranty
$900 less than 95k miles, ; wire up park/ and reverse
subaru parts:
My name is Lisa and I work at Troncalli Subaru in Roswell, Ga. If you are
looking for parts, I can help you with great pricing. You can contact me at
sugar30041@yahoo.com - (770)664-9100; 800-334-4717 , 770-889-8951
Rsbuckner@aol.com - Richard 503-615-8403
bearings -
bearing agencies- 415-621-8363
rich, 7-4:30pm m-f, 8-noon sat
BC = first gen sedan
BF = first gen Wagon
all cars in japan are known more by their chassis designation than model
-----
posts from the net that seem worthy
The list of mods I would make to the 2200cc turbo Legacy's or more
torque/power, in this order, are:
1/ Intercooler
2/ Bigger intercooler!
3/ 3 inch exhaust system
4/ Free flowing intake
5/ Boost increase (around 15-16PSi should be sustainable in most conditions
with 96 RON or greater fuel if engine is based on same block/pistons etc
as our 1994cc turbo EJ20)
6/ Revised programmable engine management with custom tuning to suit mods
7/ Larger ball bearing turbo (STi VF23 or VF22)
8/ Pre turbo extractors/headers
8/ Forged pistons, rods, port and polish heads, etc
9/ Revised fuel system (new fuel rails to prevent leaning out in 2nd cylinder
under high boost)
10/ More boost (around 20Psi should be easily sustainable with the stronger
engine internals
By now you should have in excess of 370-380hp and have a smile from ear to
ear. However, things that weren't mentioned that should be looked at are
suspension, brakes, clutch and gearbox.
I hope this helps further Larry.
Kind Regards
Ben (MRT Performance "We Rally, You Win !" )
-----
redwood city subaru:
gasket kit: $252.95
(head gasket, intake manifold, exhaust manifold o-rings )
piston rings: $351.91 all four
piston : $93.87 ( 2 = 187.74)
X-rods : $104.54 each rod
crank shaft bearings - $135.54
connecting rod bearings: set $267
engine mount: $175.17 (left) $152.45 (right)
oil pump: $153
water pump: $81.84
gasket water: $3.08
timing belt: $71
hydraulic tensioner:
idler: $109 $145 $90
cam shaft sprocket 2- $98
crankshaft sprocket: $33
manual tranny: $3900
http://www.midwestgaskets.com/subaru.htm
SUBARU 2212cc LEGACY TURBO (EJ22T)
CYLINDER HEAD COMPLETE
GASKET SET GASKET SET
90 - 94 52119800 162.25 $115.89 50133400 217.53 $155.38
http://www.rpmrons.com/subaru,cranks.html
Turbo Legacy 1991-94 2212cc EJ22 engine 2.2L F.I. OHC 4 crank kit - $389.31
The 2.2 Turbo could easily be tweaked to 300+hp. It uses a closed-deck design unlike all current Subaru motors.
That 160hp was running at 8PSI on 8.0:1 compression. A few Legacy Turbo owners are running right at 13PSI, where the ECU begins stepping in, and we estimate closer to 200hp.
With minor revisions i believe that high teens or low 20's in PSI could
really make this engine do what it was meant for, make power. It's a shame
they detuned it so much for the US market.
Want facts? http://www.xmission.com/~dac/centric/turbo_info.htm
Overheating is extremely tramatic to the engine. The heads, bearings, valve
train, and engine block all are subject to severe damage from overheating
It is my understanding that turbo Subarus usually are the models that
occasionally suffer from overheating. As the aluminum head expands during
overheating the valve assemblies attached to it can also be damaged. Has
the radiator been checked for obstructions?
[foo_:foo@fdt.net] new rad/oil cooler, ceramic turbos, good aftermarket boost
controllers, etc?
subaru junkyard?
John's Import Auto Wrecking
Outback Motorsports (call Steve or John at (714) 994-5222).
notes on what i've found on the net
parts wanted list:
transmission notes:
-look for a forester 5-speed, i heard from a few sources that it's
the same as the WRX, and probably stronger than the turbo 5mt
turbo rebuild:
-standard Legacy turbo is a IHI RHB5(also known as vf10)
-IHI RHB 5 VF119011 made by Warner-ISHI I
-The TD05 is larger and can
deliver more boost at lower temp. I was told that this unit should be
able to put out 15lbs to 20lbs with the Legacy engine as the WRX is
supposed to run 16 lbs to 18lbs or so I am told. This one is in very
good condition and should be almost a bolt-on from what I can see.
this includes the top section of the up-pipe that may be needed. The
only thing that I can see that would have to be changed is the
discharge to intake or intercooler connection as this is larger.Price
is $500.00 plus shipping.
-http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BC-BFLegacyWorks/message/2829
http://www.turbocity.com/
A rebuild kit is recommended, just to make sure the turbo is in good working order. Turbo City is a good source for the rebuild kits and they cost approximately $130.
Turbonetics
5400 Atlantis Ct.
Moorpark, CA 93021
805-529-8995
labor $175+kit=$350
jason - 805-581-0333
maintenance - $331.61
106 parts
225 labor
shipping: 2255 agate court
simi valley, ca 93065
name and phone #
2 weeks
total for upgrade $600
jeff
Turbo City
1137 West Katella
Orange, CA 92867
714-639-4933
$303- bearing, polishing, press
2 day turn around
cfi turbocharger - 800-624-2641
$450
diamond turbo - 800-778-8726
oakland
$625
d&j- 85/hr: 650-871-4390
san bruno auto center: 650-873-5150
j&k- $80/hr 650-755-0983 not much subaru
randy - suspension auto center 650-301-1634
rear differential
rear differential - maybe from nissan?
hood scoop
From: "William D. Robinson"
Date: Tue Nov 6, 2001 10:09am
Subject: Hood Scoops
After running a hand-sculpted hood scoop that fits into the stock hood hole for about three years, I have switched to the scoop from an 87 Impreza Outback Sport. If you get the scoop from an Outback Sport, RS or whatever and cut off all of its fasteners and underside protrusions, it can be glued down to a BC-BF hood and only sticks up around the margins by about 1/16th inch. To do it right, you must cut the hood hole about one inch forward until you hit the cross-brace. Also trim off the back of the hole to get rid of the old mounting "ears". If you are too chicken to cut your hood, you can still get it to fit, but it will be slightly too far back and your effective hood hole will be smaller and too far aft to feed your intercooler at maximun efficiency.
I am pleased with how the scoop compliments my 92 Legacy's appearance and I look forward to ducting it to my intercooler and to cool the turbo area.
Bill Robinson
intercooler
93-96 wrx fit the easiest, anything later must be modified to fit.
For my application ('96 WRX air/air intercooler) I will have
the outlet pointing straight up, with two 90 degree bends I
am into the intercooler.
Kampf: this will fit the ic in:
http://www.mrtrally.com.au/performance/siliconehoses.htm
this is a better BOV:
http://www.mrtrally.com.au/shop/images/products/fg-bov-t1.jpg
150kW turbo Subaru Liberty (Legacy) RS uses a factory-fitted water/air exchanger that has a 4kW capacity
http://www.autocaresubaru.com/turbo.html
WRX INTERCOOLER Top mount. Available in New or Used.
New - $700.00 Used - $400.00
http://www.prestige-motorsports.com/engines.html
Upgraded TOP mounted intercooler up to 50% more efficient
than stock Contact us for more info. Stock pre 1997 years
$1295.00
http://www.rallispec.com/turbo_power.htm
RS121 RalliSpec Top-mount Intercooler $650
enquires@central-subaru.co.uk: $208 includes shipping
Intercooler $500 with pipes. postage $100. ($305 us)
Regards
Adelaide Jap Dismantlers
www.adelaidejap.com.au
adeljap@cobweb.com.au
From: "Gary Chambers"
New intercooler $600.00 + shipping. To order call
1-888-442-6508 ext 109.
£150.00 + delivery (next day)
paul TEL 011 44 020 8943 9535 MAIL sales@rallybits.com
WEB www.rallybits.com
http://www.subaru-spares.co.uk/
I ordered my intercooler from Andrew Lord at Subaru Spares.
The cost was £45.00 and the shipping was £57.00 for a
total cost of $147
Kampf: find outback motorsports in orange county, they
have a/w intercoolers and stuff
$100 - intercooler
$50 for connector
get a water pump, small radiator and hose
Kampf: they import legacy turbo engines for dune buggies
and put huge ICs one 'em
Kampf: water is a much better head soaker than air,
so maybe a few more hp
silicone hoses
http://www.bakerprecision.com/silicone.htm
electronic boost control
HKS SS BOV, Blitz DDBOV (left), or Greddy TRUST Type S (right)
are preferred the most.
I will probably be going with a Blitz eventually.
Cost will be about $200.
boost gauge / turbo timer
-Everyone concurs that the dual pod for the 80's CRX works,
but you have to use a heat gun to form it to fit just right!!!
-I bought a carbon dual gauge pod from autometer for a '96 Eclipse and it fits good. It looks sweet too! It was only like $30 for the pod.
-I don't have the part # right off the top of my head. But wouldn't the new dual-gauge pillar for the Impreza work ok. It's made by autometer
http://www.lumine.net/subaru/legacyb4/tuning/turbomonitor.html
egt gauge?
clutch:
If you do change the clutch, I would recommend the clutchmasters stage 3 clutch and mueller lightweight flywheel
Pro-Street Clutch Kit
http://www.cobbtuning.com/legacy/drivetrain-clutch.html
PART # DESCRIPTION PRICE
211 110 Pro-Street Clutch Kit $394.95
211 131 Clutch Bearing Kit (T/O and Pilot) $49.95
flywheel/clutch: http://www.writerguy.com/primitive/motor.htm
lightened flywheel: $400(no legacy turbo)
Legacy Turbo 2.2 Clutch Kit $391 each
http://www.challengerdeep.com/Subaru%20Parts/Universal%20Parts/clutchmasters.htm
phone: 240-988-4475
stage 1 - $375
stage 3 - $500
http://www.jcsportsinc.com/
800-CLUTCH3 Stage 3 Clutch Kit $574.95
800-FLY-2 Chrome Molly Street 12 LB $449.95
brakes:
I would try MetalMasters (sold under a few different brand names including Repco, Pagid and Axxis I think). They have been around a while and people seem to like them on this board. I had them on a VW and had no complaints. Primitive sells them, not sure for which models. I bet they can get them if they are available though
struts
http://www.cobbtuning.com/legacy/suspension-struts.html
PART # DESCRIPTION PRICE
921 101 KYB AGX Strut Kit 92-94 AWD (all 4) $424.95
http://www.spdusa.com/prod01.htm
KYB AGX struts 4-way adjustable front, 8-way rear SUSAGX $408
springs
these springs lower the front by 1.25" and the rear by 1"
http://www.cobbtuning.com/legacy/suspension-springs.html
922 301 H&R Sport Springs 1990-99 (all 4) $329.95
Eibach springs exist...
lowered the car 1.6" in the front, and 1.75 in the rear
strut tower bars F&R
Front:
http://www.cobbtuning.com/legacy/suspension-towerbars.html
921 401 Front Strut Tower Bar - 90-94 (Oval Shaft) $179.95
rear:
921 413 Rear Strut Tower Bar - 90-94 Wagon (Oval Shaft) $179.95
rims
exhaust
LEGACY 1992-1994 TURBO WAGON
600-300LTW Ex Cat Back, Aluminized 3” with Cat. $499.95
http://www.jcsportsinc.com/exhaust.htm
http://www.lumine.net/subaru/legacyb4/tuning/hks_muffler.html
borland
strauman
Hey Mike; I bought a Hartthrob, Deep-tone glass pack muffler
tip(JC Whitey) for a full size pickup(perfect 2 1/4" inlet).
3" out side case,Black painted or SS. I stuck mine in a
larger chrome truck stack(5"), it thunders! I have had it on
for a bout 1 1/2 years
pulleys:
http://www.cobbtuning.com/impreza/engine-pulleys.html
300 101 Power Pulley Kit (Black) $219.95
headers?
http://www.cobbtuning.com/legacy/engine-exhaust.html
not sure if this fits
511 201 Borla Stainless Steel Headers $439.95
pistons:
http://www.autocaresubaru.com/turbo.html
ISR Performance pistons are forged aluminium, low compression
pistons for forced induction. For high end application for
greater strength & tolerance to heat.
Includes wrist pins & rings.
2.0, 2.2 & 2.5 available
$749.00 complete set.
1993 turbo legacy wagon:
volume 1 - intro
$79.95 - volume 2 / 3
4 / 5 = tranny
6 = electric
7 = supplement
91-94 = same engine
notes for my vehicle
vin: jf1bj6731ph903512
applied model: bj7dy8y
option code: RM
trim: 320 color: 262
engine: ej22tca3bb
automatic tranny: tz102zj3aa
manual tranny: ty752vj1aa (91 5 speed manual)
**************
6/11/93 - 184 - front seat belt replaced
7/20/93 - 3570 - sunroof wind deflector installed
**************
1/13/94 - 12547 - rotated tires
3/31/94 - 14676 - front brake pads, machine rotors
5/26/94 - 18930 - 15k service - rotor warpage, replaced, new pads
6/ 3/94 - 19284 - shows neutral all the time
6/20/94 - 20761 - rear brakes/rotors ok, resurfaced front brake rotors
10/7/94 - 28630 - front disc rotors replaced
- sunroof tilt was fixed
**************
1/27/95 - new front/rread disc pads, new rotors. sunroof leaks at
passenger side, adjustment, clear drain holes.
undercarriage damage, ran over center island. no damage found
2/ 6/95 - 32116 - - replaced sun roof lid
2/ 7/95 - engine light on - fault in ecm / faulty canister purge solenoid
replaced anister purge solenoid
3/31/95 - 32613 - alignment on front wheels
recharged a/c
body shop reparis
replaced oil pan
7/11/95 - 37245 - tires rotated
9/26/95 - 40909 - new brakes, new rotaters front
11/ 9/95 - 31824 - new tires
**************
4/18/96 - smogged
5/ 7/96 - sunroof service
5/16/96 - 50068 - oil changed
9/24/96 - 57773 - 60k service
rotated tires, timing belt
body / side front fendor splash guard is loose.
bumper cover is still loose
brake fluid, fuel system cleaned, anti freeze, fuel filter
*********
6/23/97 - 84600 -oil change
6/30/97 - 70263 - oil change
7/ 3/97 - 70352 - "metal to metal front rotors"
rotators replaced, front and rear brakes
"oil and fluid leaks. from valve cover both sides, right rear cam
shaft end cap seal and o-ring. possible leak from power steering"
10/16/97 - 75978 -brakes checked
11/06/97 - battery replaced
12/29/97 - 79126 - tires replaced
********
4/14/98 - 82217 - rotor machined and new front pads
4/27/98 - 82708 - water pump replaced due to leaking
4/21/98 - 82436 - loose coolant hose under intake area
12/15/98 - 88657 - oil change
********
1/22/99 - 89311
alignment, power steering unit replaced
repalced cam retainers o-rings and vc gaskets
1/15/99 - 90k service
- rotated tires, turned front rotors
new brake fluid, collant, spark plugs, fuel filter
4/28/99 - 91387 codes in ecu, knock sensor, temp sensor. coolant bottle leaking
4/30/99 - 91428 - hard to start when hot- replace temp sensor
5/21/99 - 92572 - oil change
5/3/99 - cooling system leak
5/5/99 - 91612 - replace windshield wipers
********
3/3/00 - 100332 - oil change
3/3/00 - 100336 - new brakes, machined front rotors, alignment
11/3/00 - 106224 - replace front and rear drive shafts(remanfactured)
r/f bellows kits
8/32 brakes front (944mm thickness front rotors)
10/32 brakes rear (501 left / 499 right rear rotors)
"need r/f axel shaft npf brakes"
********
2/23/01 - 108276 - automatic tranny rebuilt